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The only Australian in Bali

The fastest way to find a cockfight in Ubud is to find yourself a man with a cock. (The double entendre, as Clifford Geertz put it in his seminal piece on the Balinese cockfight, is entirely deliberate: “For it is

Keeping tourists safe in Vietnam: Calls for foreigners’ police force

Ho Chi Minh City authorities have again raised the prospect of establishing a tourism police force to make the burgeoning travel industry safer after a reported surge in street crimes. Just last week, one person was killed and at least

The train to Quảng Ngãi

It was in the canteen car of the late-night service that the Vietnam veteran finally told me his story. We’d been friends for months, regulars at a Louisiana-themed bar off Saigon’s Bùi Viện backpacker strip, but his time in-country was,

A ramble ’round Hội An

Named for Vietnam’s ubiquitous dish of water spinach and garlic, Morning Glory in Hội An’s ancient town regularly packs them in. One of local restaurateur Trinh Diem Vy’s four local eateries (Ms Vy, as she is known, also runs Melbourne’s

Gibbon take: The high flyers of Laos

It is probably the greatest shower in the world. Open to the elements, it looks on to Laos’s Nam Kan National Park, northwest of Luang Prabang near the Laos-Thai border. The park sprawls away from the wooden railing to the

Pierre Gagnaire takes on La Maison 1888 in Vietnam’s Da Nang

Pierre Gagnaire has spent the morning swimming. Never mind that the sixty-five-year-old Frenchman arrived in Da Nang, on Vietnam’s central coast, just last night, having spent the week visiting his restaurants in Tokyo and Seoul. One could forgive him for

Laos faces the unknown as elephants walk from logging into tourism

Walk down any street in Luang Prabang, Laos, and you will be presented with any number of opportunities to interact with elephants. Some are more ethical than others. Indeed, at the Elephant Village, fifteen kilometres outside town, the motto is:

When you become one of those dreaded privileged travellers

“This is a service we’re paying for,” complained the American girl as she and her bags were shoved unceremoniously into the admittedly too-full taxi that was to take us to the Hanoi coach terminal. “We’re going to give you the