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Mural network: Street art in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Even at magic hour, when it is perfectly lit and the city at its most attractive, it is difficult to know what to make of Banja Luka’s “Old Dude”. Painted by the Bulgarian artist Bozhidar Simeonov, or Bozko, on a

Art fakes loom over Modigliani madness

It has been a big year for Amedeo Modigliani. At least three exhibitions of the Italian painter and sculptor’s work are currently underway or about to open around the world. In New York City, ‘Modigliani Unmasked’ opened at the Jewish

Difficult material: Bosnia’s stand-ups jest about genocide

A Srebrenica widow is asked to identify her husband’s body. It is not the most promising start to a joke, but Navid Bulbulija, sipping Coca-Cola outside a café in Sarajevo, less than two minutes’ walk from the city’s Srebrenica Massacre

Bosnia and Herzegovina may never be clear of landmines

Sead Vrana remembers the first land mine he cleared as though it were yesterday. It was 1993, less than a month before his 18th birthday, and Mr Vrana was a soldier in the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and

How much can Romania bear? Killing bears is back on the cards

Nearly one hundred Eurasian brown bears call Romania’s Libearty​ Bear Sanctuary home. Located seven kilometres east of Zarnesti in Transylvania’s Carpathian Mountains, the 69-hectare property opens its gates to tourists each morning, a little after feeding time, when the animals

The politics of prayer in Kosovo

In the rectory of Kosovo’s Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa, a few days ahead of the consecration ceremony in September, Father Lush Gjergji can hardly contain his excitement. Casually clad in shirtsleeves and clerical collar, the diminutive but ebullient priest

Reporting the truth gets you sucker punched in Kosovo

Parim Olluri’s assailants arrived first. The CCTV footage shows only their backs as they stroll past the camera and on up the street. There are three of them and they’re all wearing hoods. Olluri’s fiancée, Genta, appears next. She stops,

Sicily’s tide of misery

It’s early evening in Catania, Sicily, and the central station is once again thronged with African asylum seekers. Every night they come here—their meagre possessions in tow, seagulls wheeling madly overhead—to catch buses and trains to other parts of Italy,