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The best, saddest little taverna in Athens is on Astiggos Street, on the far side of the Monastiraki Flea Market. It is called Kallipateira and it is owned by a married couple, Yiannis and Maria, who run front of house

Ibrahim Sall has three euros to his name. The Mauritanian street vendor, selling knock-off handbags on the streets of Athens’ Plaka tourist district, actually laughs as he reaches into his pocket to show me the coins. “Three euros!” he says. “Three