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Blood rituals

There are better places to see bullfights than Pamplona. In fact, during the city’s annual fiesta, Pamplona is one of the worst places in Spain to see corridas de toros: the crowds up here in the Basque country demand the

Five Short Stories about the Feria de San Fermín

1. On the morning of the first encierro I ever saw, the first encierro of the year in question, I found myself on a balcony overlooking the square outside the town hall. It was before the first police lines had

Beyond the bull in Pamplona

When Australians think of Pamplona—and especially of other Australians in Pamplona—they are liable to conjure up mental images of drunken backpackers drenched pink with sangria, running down a street in terror as several tonnes of irate beef comes tearing down

Bulls and bayonets

The Pera Museum in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu is currently hosting an exhibit of Goya’s prints and paintings, Goya: Witness of His Time, which Mel and I got along to see a couple of weeks ago. The first major exhibition of Goya’s work

Death in the afternoon revisited by a beginner bullfighter

“At the first bullfight I ever went to,” Hemingway writes at the beginning of his 1932 nonfiction work Death in the Afternoon, “I expected to be horrified and perhaps sickened by what I had been told would happen to the