After about three days in Arriaga – where we will eventually spend a week – one feels inclined to paraphrase the famous opening narration from Casablanca:
“And so a tortuous, roundabout refugee trail sprang up: Guatemala City to Tecún Umán, across the Río Suchiate to Tapachula, then by third-class bus or foot along the Pacific coast to Arriaga in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas. Here, the fortunate ones – through money, or influence, or luck – might obtain enough money to scurry to Mexico City, and from Mexico City to Texas or California. But the others wait in Arriaga. And wait. And wait. And wait.”
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What they are waiting for is el tren, the now infamous freight service that takes them to Ixtepec, Oaxaca, and on into the cartel-controlled state of Veracruz. There, many are beaten, sexually assaulted, robbed, extorted, kidnapped or killed – and there are few, if any, lucky ones.
Read an edited version of the article in Overland or download the full version as an e-book.
