Feasts of yore

The year is 1788, and you, being a fellow of good standing in the colony of NSW, are cordially invited to toast King George III’s birthday with Governor Arthur Phillip at Government House. The menu may include local alternatives to British greens, such as chickweed and samphire; local seafood, including oysters and mussels; and perhaps even a whole roasted wallaby, its hind legs tucked forward all the way to its snout.

There will be a lot of imbibition, of course—“Port, Lisbon, Madeira, Teneriffe and good old English Porter”, one attendee remembered—and, as such, a lot of “huzza”-ing.
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Or consider this: an invitation to a lavish state banquet in 1888 to celebrate the colony’s centenary. This is the sort of long-form meal that involves a toast at the end of every French-inspired course—it’s not considered so couth to eat the wildlife these days—so you’re going to need stamina.

Read the full article in The Australian.