A fleet of small, white, open-air buggies take in the sea air at the edge of the docks, their drivers nonchalant, clouded in cigarette smoke, loitering in wait for an easy fare. I spent the night on the deck of the La Paz Star, crossing the Sea of Cortez from Baja California and using my leather duffle bag as a pillow, and am in no mood to shop around or haggle. I allow myself to be solicited, to be taken for a ride both literally and figuratively.
I am in Mazatlán, on Mexico’s Pacific coast, for the first time four years and ask to be driven along the malecón, or esplanade, for old time’s sake. Very little appears to have changed. A handful of late-autumn diehards take to the water. Men in hardhats and fluorescent vests install electrical wiring beneath the footpath. The Frankie Oh nightclub, once owned by the Tijuana cartel’s Francisco Arellano Félix, remains in ruins, though its facade is slighter blacker than before, charred, having caught alight two years ago.
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Matthew Clayfield
Matthew Clayfield is a journalist, critic and screenwriter.
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