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A Journey into Thailand’s Separatist South, Part One: A Quest for Booze in the Land of Sharia Law

This story begins in Malaysia. It begins in Malaysia, in Kota Bharu, the capital of the north-eastern state of Kelantan, on a dusty train platform at the edge of the city, not far from the river, which leads to the

The Blood of Kashmir, Part Five: Shotguns at the Mosque

Friday prayers began at half-past twelve. There had already been a minor altercation. As I arrived at Nowhatta Chowk, a square on the Srinagar-Leh Highway where a fountain tinkled prettily, Indian security forces were attempting to prevent a group of

The Blood of Kashmir, Part Four: The Rugby Girls and the Restless Resistance

With my stay in Kashmir now approaching its end, I wandered down to the town’s rugby pitch to see one of the beginners girls’ squads at practice. As Waheed Para had promised, it was a great story: a ray of

The Blood of Kashmir, Part Three: Rape Threats and Roadside Bombs

The worst thing I ever did on Twitter was follow Shehla Rashid. From the moment I did so—or at least from the moment she first retweeted me—I have had a front-row seat at the shitshow that is Hindutva, or Hindu

The Blood of Kashmir, Part Two: Families of the Jihad Martyrs

The day after Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s visit to Srinagar, the city remained in a state of suspended animation. It was the anniversary of Molvi Farooq’s assassination, the one-time Mirwaiz of Kashmir and separatist leader having been murdered 18

The Blood of Kashmir, Part One: A Ramadan Ceasefire

In the end, I was probably lucky that the dog bite was the worst thing that happened to me. Not that I felt very lucky at the time. What I felt at the time was a pain in my leg.

The magnificently messy ‘House of Cards’

There is a spectre hanging over the sixth and final season of House of Cards: the spectre of Frank Underwood. Or is it the spectre of Kevin Spacey? In October last year, Spacey became one of the first high-profile targets

Poppies for the forgotten: Armistice Day, imperialism, and the war that never ended

Well, that went quickly, didn’t it? Today, on the eleventh hour of the eleventh day and all that, we marked a hundred years since the guns fell silent on the battlefields of WWI. This year, for obvious reasons, the commemorations