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Pamplona bull runners must be prepared to die

When the bulls are released on to the streets of Pamplona in Spain, Bill Hillmann will be waiting. The start of the famous runs on Tuesday will be the first time the Chicago native has faced the animals since one

On the road to Tây Ninh, where a candy-coloured temple waits

It was on the road to Tây Ninh that Thomas Fowler and Alden Pyle found themselves trapped, in Greene’s The Quiet American, in a watchtower surrounded by Viet Minh; on the road to Tây Ninh that they escaped into the

From Jamestown to Mount Martha

You can see it from the Mule Yard, the only bar in Jamestown, Saint Helena, that happens to be open every day. It’s more prominent at low tide than high, a steering column jutting out of the water like the

Vietnam War correspondents reunite to honour the fall of Saigon

Correspondents who covered the fall of Saigon gathered on a rooftop bar in Ho Chi Minh City last Wednesday to honour the fortieth anniversary of the end of a war that made many of their names. Numbers were down to

A place beyond the pages

I started Graham Greene’s The Quiet American in my room on Ho Chi Minh City’s Bùi Viện backpacker strip. I probably should have started it at the Hotel Continental, where Thomas Fowler first meets Alden Pyle, but the Continental is

Forty years on, what can a war book teach us?

In January, Picador reissued Michael Herr’s classic book on the Vietnam War, Dispatches, and with today marking the 40th anniversary of the Fall of Saigon now seems the perfect time to revisit the book’s pyrotechnic prose and harrowing, still-relevant lessons.

Forty years after the fall of Saigon, a visit to Ho Chi Minh City’s war museum

Has it really been forty years since there wasn’t enough room on the last chopper out? The streets of Ho Chi Minh City are, if not exactly festooned, then at least rather heavily decorated with banners and other displays attesting

Island destinations where your heart and stomach sink

As they said of Rick’s in Casablanca, everybody comes to the Obsidian. And, as at Rick’s, they run the gamut: German climatologists, Italian game fishermen, Australian teachers who work on the Falklands, Belgian authors, Scottish contract painters, Canadian filmmakers and