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Vietnamese Diary

I had been loitering around some dreadlocked types, working up the courage to join the conversation, when the people smuggler sat down next to me. Actually, that might not be an entirely fair description: Lanh, which is not his real

Taking a punt in London and Essex

“The Grand National,” I was told on the morning of Britain’s famous steeplechase, “is a forty-nag slaughter-circus.” This sounded like hyperbole to me. But my friend continued: “Be sure to place a bet.” “I don’t know anything about horses,” I

Why you should travel beyond Victoria’s Great Ocean Road

Driving from Melbourne, the Great Ocean Road comes to an end just short of Warrnambool. But for those who have a little more driving in them—or a lot more—there are plenty of reasons to push on. With its rugged coastline,

Kobane: How we failed the Kurds

The men at the Can Diyarbakir ticket desk in Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, eyed the lapel of my filthy white shirt with a mix of admiration and concern. “We appreciate it very much,” said one, indicating the Kurdish

Maintaining the rage four months on from Iguala

Four months ago yesterday, in the Mexican state of Guerrero, forty-three students from the Raúl Isidro Burgos Rural Teachers’ College of Ayotzinapa were forcibly disappeared in the town of Iguala while travelling to a protest against discriminatory hiring and funding

Barbarians at the Gates: A Postcard from Erbil

The car bomb sounded like a car backfiring. I heard it, dismissed it, and went back to sleep. It was only a few hours later, as I sat at the window of Erbil’s Hotel Merci, looking out over a two-story

Notes from el norte: Narco tours, drug lords and the approach to the US border

A fleet of small, white, open-air buggies take in the sea air at the edge of the docks, their drivers nonchalant, clouded in cigarette smoke, loitering in wait for an easy fare. I spent the night on the deck of

Eating and drinking beyond the strip

The best way to see Surfers Paradise is from twenty kilometres away. From Currumbin, where I have been living for the past two months, one can take in the beauty of Sin City’s saw-toothed skyline without having to get too