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It’s the end, as they say, of an era. Or at least it was meant to be. On Saturday last week, the RMS St Helena departed the South Atlantic island that gives it its name for what was supposed to

You can see it from the Mule Yard, the only bar in Jamestown, Saint Helena, that happens to be open every day. It’s more prominent at low tide than high, a steering column jutting out of the water like the

As they said of Rick’s in Casablanca, everybody comes to the Obsidian. And, as at Rick’s, they run the gamut: German climatologists, Italian game fishermen, Australian teachers who work on the Falklands, Belgian authors, Scottish contract painters, Canadian filmmakers and