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It is Saturday night in Madrid and Plaza Mayor is thronged with people despite the chill breeze of midwinter. We weave through the bodies in their winter coats past the statue of Philip III in his brocaded one and duck

Angus “The Scottish Rocket” Ritchie is giving me advice. “If I’m behind you when you look back, that’s good. If you see me ahead of you, that’s very bad.” We are standing on Calle Madrid in Ciudad Rodrigo, looking down