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Notes from el norte: Narco tours, drug lords and the approach to the US border

A fleet of small, white, open-air buggies take in the sea air at the edge of the docks, their drivers nonchalant, clouded in cigarette smoke, loitering in wait for an easy fare. I spent the night on the deck of

Eating and drinking beyond the strip

The best way to see Surfers Paradise is from twenty kilometres away. From Currumbin, where I have been living for the past two months, one can take in the beauty of Sin City’s saw-toothed skyline without having to get too

Bus etiquette in changing Turkey

It was the height of Ramadan, that wonderful, languid, celebratory month that so consumes the Middle East. And in Konya, Turkey, that had its repercussions. I had come up against some of these already. Lunch options were few and far

A voyage of nostalgia from Saint Helena to Cape Town

From our ship, the island of Saint Helena in the south Atlantic Ocean is imposing, its cliffs high and sheer, the wave-buffeted rocks at their base sharp and craggy. The capital, Jamestown, where we have just spent the better part

Remembering Napoleon in the South Atlantic

It is a cool, moist morning and a hotchpotch of formally attired officials in sashes and curious tourists in T-shirts and thongs are making their way past a bilingual sign down a grassy, gradual incline to the grave. A small

Why I run with the bulls

My parents cluck their tongues. My fiancee rolls her eyes. Everyone else looks at me as though I’ve lost my mind. A few of them can understand why someone might run with the bulls once. But why someone would run

Downloading ‘Game of Thrones’ at the edge of the world

It takes a good long while to download anything on St Helena. A good long while and a pretty penny. A half hour of foot-dragging wi-fi at any one of the handful of hot spots in Jamestown, the island’s capital,

Life on Ascension Island

The German climatologist had a theory. “Everyone comes to Ascension Island for strategic reasons,” he said. “The American air force is here because of the island’s location between South America and Africa. The RAF is here because it allows them