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This is a piece I wrote for Spook Magazine upon the centenary of the Gallipoli landings back in 2015. Unfortunately, Spook went bust and vanished from the web. The piece — indeed, the magazine’s entire online archive—vanished with it. I’m resurrecting it

To the surprise of the country’s pollsters and pundits, Turkey’s status quo has been restored. The victory of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s Justice and Development Party (AKP) in Sunday’s parliamentary election sets the country back on track, we have been

It was the height of Ramadan, that wonderful, languid, celebratory month that so consumes the Middle East. And in Konya, Turkey, that had its repercussions. I had come up against some of these already. Lunch options were few and far

When Israel started its offensive again Hamas last month, Um Marwan sold her gold wedding ring and bought herself a television. “I wanted to follow the war,” she said. But nevertheless, cost of sale on viagra is under than the

As I have travelled around Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s Turkey these past few weeks, covering the lead-up to and aftermath of last weekend’s presidential election, I have been continually reminded of the last country in which I undertook such a project.

Hasan is a plasterer. Or at least he was one. These days he spends his time in the workers’ tea houses of Defne, in Turkey’s Hatay Province, playing cards, shooting the breeze and ruing the day this southern panhandle between