Latest Posts

‘Dark Tourist’ fails to shed light on extreme travel’s shortcomings

In 2012, on the 26th anniversary of the evacuation of Pripyat, the city at the heart the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone, I boarded a bus with a group of tourists and headed out to the site of the disaster. I had

Geoff Dyer for people who can’t be bothered to read him

Even before I arrived in Varanasi, I knew I wanted to reread the Varanasi section of Geoff Dyer’s Jeff in Venice, Death in Varanasi. A freelance writer is always on the lookout for potential story ideas that will allow him

Better late: On the road to Kathmandu

I was supposed to be in Raxaul, on the Indian side of the Nepalese border, at eight o’clock in the morning. There had been difficulties from the get-go. The Mithila Express, the direct train from Kolkata, had been fully booked

What I’m Reading

It has been a good year for the obituarists among us. I suppose every year is, when you think about it, though it nevertheless seems that there have been more obituaries than usual lately, at least within my own particular

How should a news photograph look?

In his controversial book War is Beautiful, David Shields took aim at the New York Times. He wrote that the newspaper’s photographic coverage of the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq both “enchanted and infuriated” him, arguing that many of the

The lost boys of Rishikesh: Exploring “India Syndrome” in the town where tourists disappear

The Ganges flow faster in Rishikesh. It is the first thought I have as I cross the Ram Jhula bridge to the eastern bank of the river, where the ashram ghats lead down to the water. I was recently in

Sounds from the silence

From Janpath Road in the centre of Delhi, the Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts appears almost deserted. I’m at the wrong gate, but the security guard manning it lets me slide through anyway and points me in the

How Afshan Ashiq inspired a sporting revolution for Kashmir’s girls

Afshan Ashiq is a rising soccer star, but she is perhaps most famous for throwing a rock. In April last year, Ms Ashiq was escorting female soccer players to training in her home state of Jammu and Kashmir (J&K) when