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The boat on Dal Lake: A letter from Kashmir

For tor the past ten days, whenever I have wished to go into town, to interview a separatist leader or take in a clash between police and young protesters, I have first had to play the tourist for a moment.

Hindu ultra-nationalists say Trump can “save mankind”

On June 14, for the second year in a row, the far-right Hindu nationalist group Hindu Sena will throw a birthday party for US President Donald Trump. Last year’s party was small but lavish, with a seven-kilogram birthday cake, countless

The vein of our common humanity: Anthony Bourdain, meeting your heroes, and the importance of getting to work

In 2007, around the time I started getting interested in food and wine and began writing the occasional restaurant review, I read Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential. A decade and change later, I don’t remember much about the book, aside from

Bangladesh rescues and represses

On March 18, Monti Chakma and Doyasona Chakma were abducted by a group of masked assailants in the Chittagong Hill Tracts (CHT), the rugged highlands that form Bangladesh’s southeastern border with Myanmar and India. The women are leaders of the

Off the tourist track, Nepal still scarred by the quake

The first thought that went through Sanu Maya Gurung’s mind was simple: “I don’t want to die at work.” It was April 25, 2015, and Ms Gurung, 32, was at her tailoring store in the village of Chautara in Nepal’s

How television is changing the rom-com

It never does one well to declare a genre dead. It may grow stale, may ossify like bone, it may even seem to fade from view. But genres have a tendency to regenerate, too: the Western, for example, rides back

Music, mantras and the Maharishi: What happened to the “Beatles’ Ashram”?

On the edge of Rishikesh, in the foothills of the Himalayas, lies an overgrown ashram reminiscent of the great ruins of the Mayans. Fifty years ago this year, the Beatles arrived at this unlikely location at the invitation of the

The youngest tour guide in Battambang

The young boy sitting across from me in the tuk-tuk smiles politely and asks me my name. I hate to be a cheapskate, put out by the loss of a couple of dollars, especially when everything here is so cheap.