Ilyichevsk is not a glamorous place. Twenty kilometres south of Odessa, on the coast of the Black Sea, it is a complex of cranes and concrete wharves, shipping containers and semi-trailers.
A line of the latter, a kilometre long, waits to proceed into the hold of a ferry as our taxi pulls off the main road towards it.
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Ilyichevsk’s charm is that it has none.
Matthew Clayfield
Matthew Clayfield is a journalist, critic and screenwriter.
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