Seven years ago when I left Queensland’s Gold Coast, where I studied, I left behind a culinary wasteland: milk bars where the air was thick with vaporised fat, fish and chip shops with blue and white-tiled walls grouted deep with nameless gunk, bain-marie Indian, bain-marie Chinese, bain-marie dippy dogs that were three hours– or was it three days? – old.
Imagine my surprise, then, on returning recently for an extended stay, to find that the wasteland has cleaned itself up. Wherever you look these days, from the brunch-minded cafés and tapas-centric wine bars to the middle- and upper-end restaurants that cement a city’s gastronomic reputation, the place now resembles, more closely than any of us would have predicted half a decade ago, the country’s culinary capitals. How did this happen? What has changed?
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