It is Saturday night in Madrid and Plaza Mayor is thronged with people despite the chill breeze of midwinter. We weave through the bodies in their winter coats past the statue of Philip III in his brocaded one and duck under the porticos that line the square, where a waiter tries to lure us into one of the tourist restaurants with the promise of a wonderful meal.
But a wonderful meal awaits us elsewhere and with a smile and a shake of our heads we walk on by.
A little further, down stone steps on to a cobblestoned street, past a barbershop and we’re there, joining a cluster of other people in front of an unimposing, dark wooden shopfront. Some are looking in the windows at the dollhouse-like replicas of the building’s interior: three dining rooms over as many levels, a kitchen with an oak-fired, cast-iron oven, each reproduced in admirable detail.
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The doormen ushers us past the sightseers and we step into the warm, red-walled embrace of Sobrino de Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world.
Matthew Clayfield
Matthew Clayfield is a journalist, critic and screenwriter.
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