You can see it from the Mule Yard, the only bar in Jamestown, Saint Helena, that happens to be open every day. It’s more prominent at low tide than high, a steering column jutting out of the water like the raised fist of a drowning swimmer. But the best way to see it is to swim out there. Kick the crabs out of your way as you descend the irregular stone steps of the dock, dive in when the swell is at its highest and use the steering column as your reference point.
It will appear long before you reach that column: the wreck of the SS Papanui is longer than you might anticipate. Sunk in James Bay in 1911 after several days on fire, it’s closer, too, within arm’s length of the surface, its stern appearing suddenly in the rays of sun that pierce the water and urging you to touch its barnacled skeleton. Follow its length on a diagonal to the shoreline and it will lead you to the steering column and the countless fish that throng it. A watery ruin, sad and lonely, with an unexpected connection to home.
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Read the full article in Meanjin, Vol. 71, No. 2.
