The smell hits you before anything else, about halfway between the bus station and the town centre, filling your nostrils and urging you onward.
Then there’s the sight of it, a literal smoke signal, wafting upwards from street level before dissipating in the sun. Finally, as you approach, comes the sound: a hundred brass instruments, racing each other through the furious melodies of the folk music, known as truba, endemic to this part of the world.
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