For tor the past ten days, whenever I have wished to go into town, to interview a separatist leader or take in a clash between police and young protesters, I have first had to play the tourist for a moment. From my houseboat in Srinagar’s pellucid Dal Lake, it is a ten-minute shikara, or boat, ride to the road, and each evening, when I’m done, it’s another one back.
It’s this latter constitutional I’ve come to appreciate: the decompression chamber of my day. We navigate the Raj-era houseboats, their colours bleeding almost into the air at this hour, until I disembark at H.B. Veena Palace and order a pot of invariably weak coffee. The Kashmiri mountains loom about us in the half-light, a snow-capped peak occasionally discernible through the cloud.
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Read the full article in The Neighbourhood Paper.
