We pulled out of Amornsup Village in Nong Chok, in Bangkok’s far-eastern boondocks, in the late afternoon when its residents begin to stir. In the central square, barefooted teenagers played soccer on the dusty concrete—the sun’s anvil throughout most of the day—while younger children crawled and cajoled on the industrial-sized spools that once held electrical wire and now lay unused behind the market-end goal. Both groups stopped and stared at the farangs riding along in the bright pink taxi, wondered what we had been doing there in the first place, and speculated as to where we might be going now.
My brother Tom is usually the only farang, or foreigner, in these parts, where he lives part of the year with his wife Niramol and her often extended family. My arrival caused quite the stir: had the infamous Bangkok backpacker trail finally reached the city limits? We perused the market for pork neck and fish balls, conscious that we were the most exotic things on the menu. (When Tom first arrived, a couple of years back, the old woman who runs the noodle place on the square told Niramol that she was having trouble concentrating as she’d never cooked for a farang before.) I was assured, however, that, as strange as our presence was here, it would be stranger still when we reached our destination: Khao Khitchakut National Park.
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