In 2012, on the 26th anniversary of the evacuation of Pripyat, the city at the heart the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone, I boarded a bus with a group of tourists and headed out to the site of the disaster. I had a vague notion of writing about the anniversary, which had been marked a day earlier by Ukraine’s then-president, Viktor Yanukovych, whose government was at the time being criticised for not adequately supporting victims. Before we were even out Kiev, however, I had a rather different article in mind. I was surrounded by too many weirdos not to.
“[W]hat they want,” I wrote later of my travelling companions, “is to give their fashionable architect friends back home the impression that they have done something very dangerous by coming here and walking around. They spend the day posing in front of anything that looks even remotely derelict, holding up the German-made Gamma-Scouts they purchased online especially for the trip, and making sure there are no Norwegians in skinny jeans and blazers in the background to ruin their photos by suggesting – as every decontamination checkpoint on our way out of the zone will later prove – that the protective suits are unnecessary and none of us is in any sort of peril.” The piece was eventually published in the now-defunct Global Mail.
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