This story begins in Malaysia. It begins in Malaysia, in Kota Bharu, the capital of the north-eastern state of Kelantan, on a dusty train platform at the edge of the city, not far from the river, which leads to the South China Sea. It begins here because I’m on my way to Thailand, to the provinces of the country’s deep south, where an ethno-nationalist separatist struggle, with its slight but undeniable air of jihad, has been underway, depending who you talk to, for at least the past fourteen years.
I am sitting in the back of a beat-up taxi, waiting for the driver to remove an intellectually disabled teenager from the front passenger seat, where he, the teenager, is giggling at nothing. Women wander about the station in variously colored tudungs, the local version of the hijab, occasionally stealing a glance through the window and wondering what’s brought me up this way. The driver eventually gives up, readjusts the songkok on his head, and shrugs apologetically, as though to say: I guess he’s coming with us. My hotel sits above a restaurant in the center of town and one enters from the alley behind it, where the scraps are thrown out and the air conditioner leaks. Rats fuck one another at the bottom of the stairs.
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Read the full article at The Daily Beast.
