The Pattani bus stand is a little out of town, swathed in greenery, which trembles slightly on the breeze, seemingly excited by the prospect of rain. I take a motorcycle taxi into the center of town, hanging off the back with my backpack and satchel bag, racing against the same prospect. Characteristically, my driver gets lost, parking out the front of the grand mosque, the largest in the country, in order to ask for directions. The stop serves as an unexpected sightseeing opportunity, not only for me, but also for the locals, who eye me curiously, as though they’ve never seen a tourist here before. It’s entirely possible they haven’t.
A couple of them wander over to say hello and to point us in the right direction. The direction in which they eventually do so doesn’t turn out to be that. I walk into the building that’s supposed to be my hotel and the owner shakes her head: This is a massage parlor, she says, and a watering hole. Hush-hush, of course, though if I’m ever in need of whisky… She comes out and exchanges words with the driver, who, having realized his mistake, laughs.
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